Reviving Kuala Lumpur: can Malaysia modernise without pricing out its past?

A yellowing receipt, framed behind glass near the entrance of Abdul Razak Gold House, records an address that no longer officially exists: “63 Ampang Street, Kuala Lumpur (Malaya)”. The shop’s modern glass frontage, polished counters and gleaming bullion cases give little away about its history. But step inside and that simple receipt serves as a small window onto pre-independence Malaysia. For six decades, this family business has reinvented itself in step with the city around it. What began as...